The Downtown Crowd Finds an Uptown Perch
当闹市人群邂逅郊区小店
FRUITION “We're really now seeing the renaissance that had been imagined,” said one patron of Red Rooster, above, on a recent night.
享受 - “我们现在真的看到了想象中的复兴时期。”最近的一个夜里，一位红公鸡的老顾客这样说着。
IT’S the dining version of the scene where the Gale house judders down in Oz. Monochrome up until that point, the world is suddenly, gorgeously Technicolor once Dorothy opens the door.
那是一个餐厅的场景，在那里，一座大房子在黑白电影中晃荡，直到那一刻，多萝西打开它的门，世界突然间，变成了五光十色的彩色电影。
Gerald Tucker at Red Rooster.
杰拉德尔•塔克在红公鸡
On any Friday night at Red Rooster, the crowd is likely to encompass not only elements of New York’s “gorgeous mosaic” but also David Dinkins, the former mayor who coined the phrase. There, either at the 76-seat restaurant, the 24 seats at communal tables near the bar, the 20-seat bar itself or the 40-seat sidewalk cafe, neighborhood bankers rub elbows with Bill Clinton; Nora Ephron might be seated alongside Thelma Golden, the director of the Studio Museum; Alicia Keys is likely to be found in a corner with Ralph and Ricky Lauren at a table bracketing her left side and a group of local church ladies on her right.
在任何周五的晚上，红公鸡的客人中都可能不仅有纽约的“华丽马赛克”圈子，也有创造这个短语的前任市长丁勤时。在那里，无论是在有76个座位的餐厅，吧台边上的24个公用席位，20个酒座的酒吧还是40个露天咖啡座上，邻居的银行家可能与比尔•克林顿交往，诺拉•伊弗龙可能与画室博物馆的负责人艾玛•高登并排而坐，可能看到艾丽西亚•凯斯与拉尔夫在某个角落，瑞奇•劳伦坐在她左手边的那张桌子，而她的右手边是一群当地的修女。
That, in a sense, is a typical experience at Red Rooster, the door onto Harlem opened by the celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson at the end of last year.
就某种意义而言，这是在红公鸡特有的体验，哈林区的这家店由名厨山缪森经营，在去年年底时正式开门营业。
Smack on Lenox Avenue just north of 125th Street, and with glamorous neighbors like Marshalls, Staples and CVS, the place almost instantly became a destination not just for those seeking soul food cooked with a Swedish accent, but for people with an appetite for a dining experience reflective of the New York Grace Paley once lauded for its “chromatic dispersion.” Very likely it was the latter that moved Barack Obama to choose Red Rooster as the spot for a $30,800-a-plate fund-raising dinner for the Democratic National Committee in March.
位于雷诺克斯大街正北的125街，与富有魅力的马绍尔群岛，Staples和CVS相邻，这个地方几乎立刻成为了一个目标，不仅是操着口音寻找黑人传统食物的瑞典人，还有所有追寻被纽约女作家格蕾斯•佩蕾赞为“五彩的离散异域”饮食体验而来的人们，后者也很可能促使了3月份巴拉克•奥巴马选择红公鸡作为民主国家委员会30,800 元筹款晚宴的地点。
And, after all, there had to be someplace besides certain sections of hipster Brooklyn where — as Sam Sifton, the restaurant critic of The New York Times, pointed out in a review awarding Red Rooster two stars — the servers, the crowd and the atmosphere all come together to represent the “polyglot, diverse” city that has historically been “a shining beacon for people of all races.”
而且，别忘了，除了时髦的布鲁克林——正如《纽约时报》的餐厅评论家山姆•西夫顿，在一份评论中颁给红公鸡的两颗星——这里无疑是另一个由服务、群众以及气氛汇聚而成的“畅通而多元化”的城市，历来是"所有种族人民闪亮的灯塔。"
There had to be a place that put the lie to a circumstance noted in an earlier Times article whose headline, “The Tablecloths Are White, and So Are Most Faces,” neatly captured restaurant reality in this town. And there had to be a Manhattan neighborhood capable of giving the meatpacking district a run for its money, at the very least in terms of style.
早期纽约时报上有一篇文章标题中曾提到“这里的桌布是白色的，人也是白色的”，巧妙地捕捉了这个小镇上餐厅的现实。但这里无疑是一个戳穿谣言的地方，况且必须要有一个曼哈顿邻区能够用自有资金支持肉类加工区的运转，至少维持住最基本的风格。
And what better place than Harlem? Make that the “new Harlem,” a historic neighborhood so long trumpeted by boosters as the next big thing that the creaky phrase seemed in need of an oiling.
还有比哈林区更好的地方吗？再造一个“新哈林”，一个历史上著名的邻居至今依然被支持者作为下一个大事件来宣扬，但这陈旧的口号看来需要加把油了。
This Mr. Samuelsson provided.
这位萨缪尔森先生准备着。
“We’re really now seeing the renaissance that had been imagined,” Myiesha Phelps, a J. P. Morgan banker and Harlem resident, said this week, as she waited outside Red Rooster for a reservation she said it took months to procure.
“我们现在真的看到了想象中的复兴时期。”一位摩根银行的职员，也是哈林区的居民米伊莎•菲尔普斯这样说，就在本周，那时候她正在红公鸡的门口，等待一个用了好几个月才订到的座位。
She may be correct, and not just on account of a spate of recently opened bars and galleries and retail establishments, places like the neo-Jazz Age boite 67 Orange Street, or the upscale Levain Bakery or the concept shop Swing.
也许她是对的，不仅是对最近一连串新开的酒吧、画廊和零售场所的统计，还有一些地方，像奥兰街67号黑人爵士时代夜总会，或者面向高端消费者的Levain Bakery以及Swing概念店。
“It’s much more interesting here than the meatpacking district,” said Ms. Phelps, a Northern California native who considers herself “a true Harlemite.”
“这里比肉类加工区有趣多了。”菲尔普斯女士这样说，作为一个加州北部的土著，她认为自己是“一个真正的哈林人”。
Harlem is far more stylish, she added, and anyone who has spent time on West 14th Street lately would surely agree that the endless parade of “It” girl aspirants teetering around in Christian Louboutins has imbued the area with the look of a luxury-goods ghetto, where runway trends and logos go to die.
哈林其实更加时尚，她补充说，任何一个不久前在西14街花过时间的人一定都会同意，那些没完没了的在克里斯提•鲁布托周围摇晃的物质女孩队伍，已使这个地区俨然成了个奢侈品的聚集地，神马T台趋势和商标在这里都是浮云！
Harlem, by contrast, seems freshly vitalized, particularly when seen from Red Rooster’s sidewalk cafe. Perched there on a breezy summer evening, a viewer beholds the pageant of Harlem street life unfolding in a manner that would have made James Van Der Zee, the great African American photographer and chronicler of Harlem, proud.
相比之下，哈林区似乎更具生命力，从红公鸡的露天咖啡座尤其可以看出。拣一个凉风习习的夏夜在那里小憩，就能看到哈林区的街头生活盛会盛大开演，这样的风俗让非裔美国摄影师，也是哈林的年代史记录者詹姆斯•泛•德•西都引以为傲。
True, the dandies of Van Der Zee’s day, in their felt fedoras and raccoon coats, are long gone. In their stead are young men wearing cotton Breton fishermen’s sweaters, rolled jeans and Topsiders; African immigrants in brilliantly patterned head wraps and flowing robes; young boys with their hair styled in neo-retro Kid ’n Play flattops; waitresses with plaited dreadlocks swept up into cantilevered coiffures; men in seersucker suits and straw trilbys with stingy brims; matrons dressed in flowing celestial-white ensembles; teenage boys with saggers slung so low on their hips that they’re forced to pluck at them, delicate as antebellum maidens, to keep them from dropping to the ground.
诚然，在泛•德•西时代的那些花花公子们的感觉中，软呢帽和浣熊外套是早就过时了的。取而代之的是年轻人穿着棉质的布勒东渔民毛衣，卷边牛仔裤和平底鞋；非洲移民戴着图案绚丽的头巾裹着柔顺的长袍；男孩们将他们的头发弄成Kid ’n Play组合那样的复古平顶头；女服务员把编好的非洲发髻拢在一起，扎成马尾；男人们穿着泡泡纱西装并佩戴边缘有刺的草帽；主妇们穿着平滑的天体白色套装；十几岁的小男孩将匣钵低悬在臀部，且不得不拽着它们，小心得像内战前的少女，怕它们会掉到地上。
Carla Thomas, a waitress
服务员卡拉•托马斯
Banshee-wailing throttles open, bareheaded daredevils do wheelies up Lenox Avenue on candy-colored Yamahas 250’s.
在莱诺克斯大道上，总有扯着喉咙嚎叫得像女鬼一般的人，光着头骑着糖果色的雅马哈250，不怕死的做转轮特技。
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